When the faucet drips and drips, it doesn’t just pull the nerves over time. All in all, an unnecessary amount of water is lost. And that in turn makes billing expensive. So the problem should be solved as soon as possible. The clear advantage here is who has a used spare valve flying around, even if this does not fit completely. Because with it you can get the drop under control for the time being. All you need is a little trick! In this manual we explain how to replace the valve and how to repair the tap.


The faucet just doesn’t stop dripping. But what to do? Usually you can find the fault in the valve. And in this case the shut-off valve of the faucet doesn’t really look fresh anymore. Whether it still closes correctly at all? Only a more detailed investigation can show that.

In order to repair the faucet, the valve is first removed and carefully inspected. In the event that the valve has to be replaced, a makeshift solution should be used. A similar used valve was found in the workshop. But whether this really fits? Time to find out!


The repair shown here is, strictly speaking, a stopcock. But basically all older models of taps can be repaired in the same way. Therefore this should not play a role for the time being. In addition to the used replacement tap, an additional flat gasket is also available. This is needed to fit the new old valve.

The need for tools for this project is limited. All you need is a screwdriver, a wrench and a wire brush. In addition some 1000 Schelifpapier should be put ready. When repairing the faucet, two things can never hurt: an empty bucket and a dry cloth!


The preparations for the repair of a faucet are not particularly extensive. But they should not be underestimated. Otherwise it can get very wet very quickly! First the main tap is turned off at the connection. Then turn on the tap to empty the remaining water from the pipe into a bucket.

As soon as the water drains, do not forget the vent valve. This is located just below the shut-off valve and is now unlocked. Then the shut-off valve is opened. This reduces the tension in the valve and facilitates unscrewing to check whether the valve needs to be replaced.


The first question is, of course, how to remove the old valve at all. All you need is the right tool. Here the decision is made in favour of a wrench. The wrench is now attached to the valve in such a way that it can be unscrewed counterclockwise.

Once the valve has been loosened sufficiently, it is then completely unscrewed and removed by hand. This allows you to take a closer look at the valve.

In fact, a closer look immediately shows that the valve can only work more badly than right. Because it is covered with clear deposits. And there also seem to be problems with the seal, because it no longer sits on the valve. Is it not present at all?

That would be hard to believe, because then there would have been much bigger problems than a dripping tap. And so the sealing ring is finally found in the opening at the valve attachment of the pipe, where it simply got stuck. Here, too, considerable deposits can be seen. So it is hardly surprising that the valve no longer closes properly.


A screwdriver is used to lever the seal out of the pipe. It is already noticeable how attacked the material is after all these years. So a new gasket is needed. And the valve? Here a very thorough cleaning would be necessary, for which there is no time at the moment. So the decision is made to replace the valve.

But first the tap has to be cleaned a bit. So the valve attachment is treated thoroughly with a wire brush. This reliably removes the coarsest dirt. For the finer deposits at the opening, a 1000 abrasive paper is used.

The sandpaper is slightly moistened and then used to rub away the remaining deposits step by step. The mouthpiece of the thread, on which the valve must rest flush, is particularly important.

As soon as the deposits are sufficiently removed, the pipe opening is thoroughly rubbed again with a dry cloth. Now everything is ready to replace the valve.

Note: Never handle sharp tools such as cutters or screwdrivers when cleaning the valve attachment! In the end, the damage would be greater than the benefit.


The replacement valve found in the workshop is of the same size and has a matching thread. Otherwise, however, it has two interfering flaws which are related to each other: This is because the valve already has a built-in O-ring seal, which in its entirety makes it longer than the old one.

A test run confirms that the valve cannot be fully screwed in. But a little trick helps to solve the problem. And it’s quite simple: An additional flat gasket is picked up and pushed over the thread of the valve. The valve should no longer be able to be screwed all the way to the bottom, so that its overall length should fit.

When the valve is screwed in, it shows that the trick works. The valve can be installed without hitting the bottom. Then you can tighten it clockwise with the wrench. The replacement of the valve would then be complete. But does the repair serve its purpose?

The only way to find out is to carry out a practical test on underground plumbing. So the main tap at the connection is turned on again and the water tap is opened. Good, the water flows as usual. There is nothing to complain about here. And the valve? No abnormalities. It keeps really tight and the tap doesn’t drip anymore. Operation successful! A valve can be exchanged that easily.

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